Do you actually need a tent footprint?
Short answer
If the floor is 15D to 20D or rated under about 2,000 mm, put something under it. If it is 30D or heavier at 3,000 mm or more, a footprint is weight you probably do not need.
The two jobs a footprint does
The first is abrasion. Grit, pine duff and gravel work at a thin floor every time you move, and the wear shows up as pinholes long before it shows up as a tear.
The second is hydrostatic. Your hip and shoulder press down on a wet floor with a lot of pressure per square inch, and a 1,200 mm floor will let water through under that load even though the same fabric shrugs off rain. That is the failure people describe as the tent 'going porous' after a wet night.
A footprint does neither of the jobs people often hope for: it does not make the tent warmer, and it does not reduce condensation.
The maker's footprint versus a sheet of plastic
Branded footprints run five to seven ounces and $60 to $70, and they are cut to the tent so they clip in and support a fly-only pitch. That last part is the real argument for buying one.
Polycryo window-insulation film weighs one to two ounces, costs a few dollars a sheet, and protects just as well against grit. It is the single most common substitution people make, and it works. Tyvek is the middle option: tougher, noisier, about three ounces.
Cut it smaller than the floor
Whatever you use, trim it an inch or two inside the tent's footprint on every side. A groundsheet that sticks out past the fly catches rain and channels it directly under the tent, which is worse than having no groundsheet at all.
Tents this comes up with
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